Wine: Morgon’s wide range
2016 Jean Paul Brun Domaine des Terres Dorées ($23). Made from grapes grown in sandy granite soil, this Morgon is “delicate yet resonant”—“full of the aromas and flavors of cherries and flowers.”
2016 M. & C. Lapierre ($30). Though rooted in similar soil, this Morgon is “quite a bit richer: bright, fresh, energetic,” with a similar underlying minerality.
2016 Jean Foillard Côte du Py ($35). The Côte du Py is “essentially a hill of schist”; its grapes produce a fuller-bodied wine with “a pronounced licorice flavor” and more bottom. ■